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Lombok 2014 Day 5 – Waterfalls

(This is part of an ongoing travelogue. To start from the beginning, click here)

This marks the final full day in Lombok. Nothing beats a morning swim just before breakfast.

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This is an awesome view, an altar facing Gunung Agung in Bali. At night they light up the fire like a sacrifice.

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Lady going for a morning walk on the beach along our hotel.

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Breakfast was something i looked forward to. They had a la carte brekkie, all with servings of fruit, juice and coffee or tea.

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Today we planned to go to one of the waterfalls on the island. There two places to see spectacular waterfalls, all emanating from the mystical Gunung Rinjani in the centre of Lombok. The most impressive series of falls, Senaru or Tiu Kelip, are at the north of the mountain. Unfortunately its a long drive through back roads to get there. Plus after the first waterfall, its hard and steep trekking to get to the next ones. So we decided to take our guide’s tip to visit the slight more accessible Benang Setokal and Kelambu falls to the south of Rinjani.

Although easier to traverse, they is by no means within easy reach. Ot takes almost 2 hours driving from Senggigi. Our plan was to take a slow drive while taking time to visit some interesting sights along the way.

First up, a furniture factory outside Mataram. En route we paased the market again. You see the chaos outside.

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Lombok is famous for cultivated pearls, folks come from all over Indonesia to buy them. A side industry has blossomed from this – they embed the shell of the oyster in furniture to make this distinct feature common on the island.

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Basically after embedding, they scrape off the wood layer to reveal the luminous oyster shell.

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From Mataram we drove past Narmada, the old capital of Lombok. Here the morning pasar had lots of stalls selling all kinds of machetes and carving knives.

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Theres a palace ground in Narmada but gave that a miss.

Beyond Narmada its just small villages interspersed by paddy fields and coconut trees.

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Deep into the heartland we finally reach the waterfalls. Here they have a series of 5 falls, each set is deeper in, higher up, and harder to trek. Not to mention more expensive the fees. I took the package for the first two falls only for IDR 120,000 per adult (can’t remember exactly) , kids enter for free.

The first is Benang Stokal, an easy 5 minute walk in from the parking.

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On the way we saw this strange tree with fruits on the trunk.

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There are two falls here both gushing ice cold water into shallow pools, you can wade under it.

Some schoolkids enjoying a day out.

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The second fall, Benang Kelambu, is 30-45 minute hike from here. But we were not wearing proper shoes and it would have been tough on Hannah, so we opted for the alternative – motorbike! They use another easier but far longer route, but only 5 mins on wheels.

First time riding pillion. That’s our driver doing motorbike duty also.

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and the local guide. He used to work in Cameron Highlands.

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After the bike ride there are some pretty steep and slippery steps.

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But once there, you can see its all worth it.

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we didn’t go on to the deeper falls, I wonder how beautiful they are.

we got back to civilization at about 2pm, lunch was babi guling in Cakranegara, the commercial centre of Lombok. Here are where the Chinese and Hindu businesses are concentrated. Today happened to be 2 days before Nyepi, so there were many ogoh-ogoh (giant effigies) ready for burning.

Babi guling here is pretty much like on Bali.

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then on we went shopping for some food stuff and Lombok coffee.

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they deep fry the weirdest things here.

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Late afternoon we reached back Senggigi, we checked out Café Alberto. Our driver told us they offered pickup and drop off service from hotels, but the receptionist said they only had dropoff. Anyway later we read some poor reviews online. Nevermind, we’ll decide on dinner later.

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More pool time followed.

Evening in Lombok is great. Our hotel sets up beach romantic dining. But be prepared to be hassled by touts.

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Dinner was decided on Square (ranked #1 on Tripadvisor, hooray!). they offered to and fro transport, I figured the cost of taxi is factored in the price.

Popular with foreigners.

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Hannah’s nasi goreng was the best.

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Later back at Qunci we explored the rest of the resort. they have a good reading room.

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And the hallways had art installation.

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Next – Goodbye.

2 Comments

  • sarah

    hi,I am planning to go to lombok next year. can I know how to rent a bike from Benang stokel to benang kelambu? can we get the bike with the driver included?

  • simon

    when we were there, we were able to rent motorbikes with the drivers at the base of the mountain up to any of the falls. however, recently we have been told that this service has been discontinued.

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